Description
All of the stories in this book have some connection to real-life events, so if you already are a surfer, you may recognize some of the situations that arise in the stories, indeed you may even identify with some, though hopefully not all, of the characters. If you’re not a surfer, this book may offer some insight into the traits that surfers display, whoever they are, and wherever they live… passion, dedication, and benevolence, but also selfishness, hubris, and vanity in roughly equal measure. This tension is the inevitable result when life begins to revolve around tides, weather systems, board choices, and transport to the beach.
As a collection of short stories, this book doesn’t insist upon undivided attention from cover to cover in one sitting, so it will suit easily distracted surfers and those who like to dip in and out. Readers are nonetheless advised to stay with each story till its conclusion, for just as no surfer knows where that first exhilarating wave ride might lead, who knows how things are going to end?
Foreword:
It seems that everybody wants to be a surfer. Granted, not everybody wants to get wet and cold, or be tumbled around by merciless waves, or share space with predatory sharks, but everyone wants a share of the ideal that lies behind the image. You don’t “do” the internet, for example, you “surf” the internet, and when things are going well, you say that you’re “on the crest of a wave”. So, to the non-surfing public, the surfer is an icon who stalwartly refuses to edit his or her soul to suit the demands of mainstream society. But perhaps surfing is, in reality, little more than a self-centred displacement activity that allows participants to dodge their responsibilities. Maybe legendary 1960s Californian surfer, Miki Dora, got closer to the truth though, when he commented that, “No problem is so big or so complicated that it can’t be run away from.”
Published in English by Waterborne Books
184 pages
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